My mind is afire this morning as I read about the shark sightings at Bondi, helped at a disabled surf event in Mollymook yesterday and realise me, and my van, are too sick to realistically risk going out for a surf today (a little over-heating problem for both of us).
And so it began.
My story is unique, as is all of ours. Full of triumphs, joys, setbacks, self-doubt, even a couple of times in the last 12 months where I seriously wondered if I was kidding myself and should just give up, the frustration outweighing the enjoyment. But these are life lessons, not just surf lessons.
Life, like the surf, doesn’t really care if you are rich or poor. We joke about winning the lottery, and don’t get me wrong, I’m up for it universe, but in the end, money will not protect you from the real things in life.
Steve Jobs money and success didn’t stop his pancreatic cancer. Robin Williams’s success and popularity didn’t stop the demons that caused him to kill himself. Money, status, the number of Facebook likes you got today, don’t mean a thing in the water. There is just you and your demons, or your joy, depending on the day, and for me, menopause swing; it’s all true ladies, plan for it now.
And no matter how ‘Zen’ I might get, practice that meditation, do that Headspace app, there is still something satisfying about watching some menacing bully who might have some sway on land, due to his physical stature, get dumped on his arse by a wave that doesn’t care too hoots about his machismo.
The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun, I’ve heard this a lot. I slightly disagree. I think the best surfer is the one still trying. Who gets out there regardless of if they think they are good or bad, have a good day or a bad one, whose life might be right in the clapper but they keep on going, hoping like their surfing, it will get better. Look up http://www.theodore-roosevelt.com/trsorbonnespeech.html for the whole thing but it’s the person in the arena, striving and living life, that matters.
And that’s surfing for me. It’s not something I think about often but it is a complete analogy of life. We stumble, we fall, we get up again, we get pummelled by things we can’t control, but when we let go of trying to control, beauty happens.